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Post by Ali on Jun 30, 2011 17:56:03 GMT 1
any ideas? Symptoms...... Battery fine Starts cold brill When run for a few kms, turn engine off, turn back on again is like batt is dead (but batt isnt dead at all) won't start. Could it be the coil?
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Post by troll on Jun 30, 2011 18:09:07 GMT 1
yes! Got pics of a 2cv rally and folk ( sensible ones with spares) are driving around waving the hot ones thru the roof.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2011 18:12:51 GMT 1
OH is asking-when you turn the key does the starter motor turn or does it not ?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2011 18:14:39 GMT 1
so also does the indicator show the battery is charging? does it start ok once it cools down.
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Post by lib on Jun 30, 2011 18:46:53 GMT 1
Yep, does the starter motor operate normally.
Then we can tell you more
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Post by Ali on Jun 30, 2011 19:17:13 GMT 1
It kinda turns over but not enough to start it - if that makes any sense. Its like the battery hasn't the power to make it go brum brum(but it has)
Hisself is in ingerland at the mo otherwise I'd be able to tell more coz I dunno know about if there even is a battery charge indicator the motor.
However, when the battery is stuck onto a charger the battery says its full.
When it's cold it is fine.
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trevp
I'm settling in nicely
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Post by trevp on Jul 1, 2011 4:21:05 GMT 1
Sounds like alternator going (or gone) duff to me. I say this because it sounds as if the engine is running on battery power only. After some time of this, the battery will become exhausted, though may still have enough energy to run the motor, though not enough to restart the motor. After a period of rest, say overnight, the battery will regain some energy naturelly and will be able to start the motor.
Have the output from the alternator checked.
As an afterthought, check your earth strapping, that's the wire connected from your battery to the body shell.
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Post by Ali on Jul 1, 2011 14:22:18 GMT 1
Thanks Trev too, could be but there's a lot of power left in the battery after a drive, shows as full on the charger. The batt can be fully charged, drive for 3 kms, switch engine off - won't fire up. Turns over but not fast enough to fire (if that makes sense)
Will check earth.
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Post by lib on Jul 1, 2011 15:23:16 GMT 1
Just for interest and hopefully to solve your present quandary, reasons for poor hot start on the 602cc engine.
If the starter motor turns noticeably slower when hot, and the battery is charged and holding charge, (do s drop test on the battery if you have the correct meter), then first feel the thick lead from the starter motor. If it is hot rather than just a little warm, then strip off (not that way you'll only overheat IanH) and clean up the earthing points. If this is not successful, the starter motor may be 'lazy' when it is hot, can be worn down / sticking brushes, dirty commutator on the amarture, or dry self lubricating bushes, (picking up when expanded with temperature). All these things are being mentioned as the vehicle has not been in constant use. Battery or the above must be favourite from your brief description. A great pity that you cannot do one of your famous Tekky Drawings, that would make everything so clear.
Coil, ok check it for overheating, hairline cracks esp from the plug lead connectors down the body. All of the body must be clean and dry. Clean the two push on contacts below one of the plug lead turrets. Plug leads can also be suspect esp modern carbon 'string' wire. Must say apart from cracked coils never really had many problems here.
Next on the list when the car has not been used much is hot flooding. This is easy to spot. Directly under the inlet manifold, under the carburettor, and on the engine casing below; look for 'wet' patch or evidence of 'wet' staining. Easy to see on the aluminium casing. The inlet manifold has a small drilling in the base to allow excess fuel to escape, honestly. So fault is, sticking needle valve, sticking float, loose pin in float 'hinge' binding. Common on a 2cv. Remove the top of the carb to check, don't bother trying to take the carb off complete as one of the 13mm nuts is almost impossible to get at without a crows foot or an open ended spanner bent at 45 degree angle with the shoulders ground off. Don't think ' I'll take the manifold off complete' as great care is needed on re-fitting, ham fisted techs tighten up the exhaust side clamps first and the inlet side then does not line up well with the bolt holes on the head, result crossed threads and helicoiling.
Next, the 2cv engine wears its plugs very quickly, too large a gap and starting problems with normal, ie no choke, mixture. Keep them clean and gapped, at least every 3000Km.
Contact breaker gap, and old condenser will cause poor start. Ignition timing out 'cos of worn points also, but the engine will at least make an attempt to fire. Note, always change the condenser when renewing the points. If you can invest some cash then replacing the points with electronic switching will mean never doing this horrid job again. I used to use lumentron? I think it was about £100.
Hope this helps a bit, if you need any more advice please post with full symptoms.
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Post by troll on Jul 1, 2011 15:41:24 GMT 1
i fitted "123 ignition" to each of mine. £99 very well spent.
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