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Post by Madame Moorhen on Jul 3, 2011 11:49:23 GMT 1
Okaaaaaaaaay, I understand the words metal and welder but not the bit inbetween. A fighter plane would have been much more exciting.
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Post by Madame Moorhen on Jul 3, 2011 11:50:46 GMT 1
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Post by lib on Jul 3, 2011 14:55:19 GMT 1
Ouch, that it not the easiest way of jarring the fan pulley of the crankshaft taper; but it works.
Try a piece of tool steel same size as pulley and if its a good fit only a sharp tap from a ball pane hammer will vibrate it off.
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Post by Ali on Jul 3, 2011 15:12:51 GMT 1
Ok, the photo was a set-up He wasn't really using a lump hammer, but now has fitted the new coil and she started without choke (which apparently is unusal), says he can't get to the points coz his thingy isn't long enough!
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Post by lib on Jul 3, 2011 16:54:54 GMT 1
Honestly Ali, thats how you get to the points, knock the fan pulley off.
Real people, not me, have been known to use a proper tool. ie a puller.
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droberts
I'm settling in nicely
Posts: 74
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Post by droberts on Jul 3, 2011 20:28:30 GMT 1
hi ali you put a socket down the hole where the starting handle fits undo the bolt in the hole then find a steel bar that will fit downthe hole the hit it from side to side with a hammer and it will come of its taper no problem you will need to remove the fan belt and then it will all pull away to show the points i used to have a citroen ami years ago when they were available for peanuts i cant believe the prices now.best of luck derek:tu:
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Post by lib on Jul 3, 2011 20:46:23 GMT 1
See, I told you that you belt it. My piece of steel tube, had for years, is a cut down first motion shaft from a GS gearbox, perfect fit.
There is a hole in the aluminium engine casing one of the two bits that stick up where the engine bolts to the gearbox this lines up with a hole in the flywheel and will give you top dead centre, stick some thickish rod in here about the thickness of a MG wire wheel spoke. Please remember to remove it as the engine won't turn when you come to start it. Its been done a lot.
ps don't forget to jam a screwdriver in the fly wheel teeth, see it under the starter, to stop the engine from turning whilst you remove the fan bolt.
pps. don't put the bolt back in to use to turn the engine whilst points setting on the cam as it bottoms out and can damage the threads, use a thick spacer on the bolt, this will allow you to turn the engine easily to set the points, remove plugs makes it a doddle as no compression.
ppps, you can use a bit of wire to connect the coil input to one of the sidelights, this will light up just as the points seperate, can save lots of messing while you turn the points box to set the timing.
god i'm boring
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Post by Fli on Jul 3, 2011 21:15:08 GMT 1
hi ali you put a socket down the hole where the starting handle fits undo the bolt in the hole then find a steel bar that will fit downthe hole the hit it from side to side with a hammer and it will come of its taper no problem you will need to remove the fan belt and then it will all pull away to show the points i used to have a citroen ami years ago when they were available for peanuts i cant believe the prices now.best of luck derek:tu: Ta D but every socket ive got is too bl...dy wide in diametre to get down the bl...dy hole and ive got more sockets and ratchets than Machine Mart Ta for info tho
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Post by Fli on Jul 3, 2011 21:24:18 GMT 1
See, I told you that you belt it. My piece of steel tube, had for years, is a cut down first motion shaft from a GS gearbox, perfect fit. There is a hole in the aluminium engine casing one of the two bits that stick up where the engine bolts to the gearbox this lines up with a hole in the flywheel and will give you top dead centre, stick some thickish rod in here about the thickness of a MG wire wheel spoke. Please remember to remove it as the engine won't turn when you come to start it. Its been done a lot. ps don't forget to jam a screwdriver in the fly wheel teeth, see it under the starter, to stop the engine from turning whilst you remove the fan bolt. pps. don't put the bolt back in to use to turn the engine whilst points setting on the cam as it bottoms out and can damage the threads, use a thick spacer on the bolt, this will allow you to turn the engine easily to set the points, remove plugs makes it a doddle as no compression. ppps, you can use a bit of wire to connect the coil input to one of the sidelights, this will light up just as the points seperate, can save lots of messing while you turn the points box to set the timing. god i'm boring Not boring at all lib I just cant get the b...dy Fan off havent got socket to fit doon hole !!!!! Lib Thanks a million for all your input into my tin can your info is proving brilliant - now has new plugs coil leads exhaust end and seems to start and run sweet. Got a mig ready for welding it all together now
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Post by lib on Jul 3, 2011 22:01:02 GMT 1
Fli,
If I remember rightly I used to have a thin wall snapon socket and also Facom make one.
My old snapon box is buried in one of the sheds so can't check right now.
Think the french supply a thin mild steel box (tube) spanner for this job, I had something similar off Peugeot in the seventies for plugs, but was double ended with 13mm on one end.
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