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Post by Deleted on Jun 11, 2012 21:48:49 GMT 1
"two hammer technique"
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Post by lib on Jun 11, 2012 23:02:20 GMT 1
2 hammer technique; Take one small lump hammer press and firmly hold its face against the female part of the joint to be separated, with either another small lump hammer or a medium ball pane hammer, or other such knocking stick, smack the opposite side of the joint. If you are successful the jarring of the joint will shock the taper out of the said female tie rod. I was told that 'resonance' or other such was responsible for the release of the taper, but I wasn't really listening 'cos all I wanted to do was split the joint and get on with the job. This technique is very similar to camel castration work and keeping ones thumbs clear is important too. PS a similar thing is done with a hammer and a bit of steel bar to get the crank pulley of a 2CV, ask Fli.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 12, 2012 16:19:39 GMT 1
OK that's it, I give up
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Post by troll on Jun 12, 2012 16:25:06 GMT 1
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Post by Deleted on Jun 12, 2012 20:15:40 GMT 1
Two days on one bolt, no way can I move it, tried plusgas, heat, WD40, air wrench, long bar etc etc, today I decided to drill it out and I broke the drill bit, it's about 1/4" below the surface One bottle won't be enough Troll, 7ltr box might help Good news is I managed to get the leg off and fit the new spring, bent the locating peg getting it around the stubborn bolt but was able to straighten it again.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 12, 2012 20:23:52 GMT 1
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Post by lib on Jun 12, 2012 20:57:20 GMT 1
We in the Lib household feel for you.
Was speaking to one of my old techs a few minutes ago and was talking about your rover and the k series engine etc. He reminded me that the bottom ball joint on those was not a taper but a 'slotted' male held in place with the shank of the locating bolt. So two potential 'stiff' bolts. He did say that he has in the past had to weld a large nut onto the head of the suspension leg pinch bolt, mentioned 32 mm nut ! so that he could get a large socket onto it for extra purchase. Common on lots of motors with mcpherson struts. He has also sheared pinch bolts in the past and had to drill them out but using a bench drill and leg firmly clamped. Heat as bee used but he says you literally have to get the bolt cherry red to break any rust. He says the seizure is not on the threads but on the shank of the bolt where it goes in the first side of the 'clamp'. Mentioned the snapped drill bit, he has no answer other than can the bolt be drilled out from the other side of the hub but would need bench drill and care not to damage the internal thread. Sorry if this is not much help.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 12, 2012 21:10:42 GMT 1
Hi Lib
I cut the bolt in half where there is a gap in the hub, the idea being that I could then use some steelsons on the bit of thread protruding through and extract the threaded part through the back of the hub and then use a bolt through there to hammer out the shank, that didn't work so I tried drilling.
I now have a bolt with NO head on it (sheared off) and a drill bit stuck in the other end.
I have one more thing to try tomorrow, I have a Dremel which I am going to use to try and cutt a slot in the threaded end and then use a modified socket extension to turn the bolt,if that fails I will have to find somebody with a good workshop to help me.
Yes the bottom ball joint is held by another pinch bolt.
Alternatively I could just buy a new hub, and get it shipped here, expensive me thinks.
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Post by Bunty on Jun 12, 2012 21:17:15 GMT 1
Can't wait for the next installment, and I am trying to keep the birds in honest, so you don't get too wet
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Post by Deleted on Jun 12, 2012 21:29:30 GMT 1
Can't wait for the next installment, and I am trying to keep the birds in honest, so you don't get too wet Just keep it dry tomorrow for me, after that I won't be able to work on it again until the 25th.
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